Sunday, December 6, 2009

The Flavour of Friendship


I've had so many wonderful meals over the last few weeks that it has been difficult for me to sort out how to best post about them.  Posting by city simply won't do on this occasion.


At one of those elegant and lovely meals, a long-time and cherished  friend pointed out that once upon a time, our favourite meal to share was no sauce/double sausage/triple cheese pizza - from Domino's.  Yes, y'all....Domino's Pizza.  We followed with a dessert of Matt's chocolate chip cookies and vanilla frosting out of a can purchased at the White Hen Pantry a few blocks from our dorm - and we were in food heaven.


The aforementioned  binge was an almost weekly ritual of ours on Sunday mornings during our freshman year of college.  Exhausted, usually hungover and a bit giggly from the events of the night before, we would order up....and tuck in for a nice, long girly chat.  More than 20 years later, I cannot help but smile at the very thought of it, and would love to have another Sunday morning spent in exactly the same way with my darling friend.


It struck me, as we chatted about those days over a beautiful meal, that food for me is clearly flavoured by the people with whom I am dining....and that if my life is delicious at all, it is far more because of the incredible people with whom I dine - than the nature of the restaurants themselves.  Don't get me wrong.  I am beyond fortunate to taste life in all of the ways that I do  but even if all of the luxury and cream sauce were to drop away, I would remain full and happy being satiated by spectacular souls.


As an example, last night I had plans to attend the theatre with a dear friend in London.  He did not wish to have dinner before the play, and I found myself a bit pissy about it as I wanted to have the "full experience" of an evening out.  Following the play, we elected to take a leisurely stroll from the theatre back to my hotel....and then spent an hour or 2 chatting and laughing over beer (for him), black lavendar martinis (pour moi), deliciously spiced nuts, and a chorizo appetizer that I foolishly thought might actually cover the vodka.  It was a lovely and perfect night, and I was without question every bit as full and happy as I was a couple of days prior, when I dined on a truffle and cream fueled six course degustation at Clos Maggiore, which is one of London's best reviewed restaurants and most difficult tables to secure.


So....having spent the last couple of weeks enjoying Thanksgiving and the official start to the winter holidays, I will - as always - offer a list of new favourites, but wanted to more than anything thank my incredible friends, who make my life so sweet and flavour-full.


And to those of you who may have wrinkled your nose at the Domino's feast outlined above, I say - don't knock it until you try it.   It really is quite fabulous.


Big Jones - Chicago - http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/







I love any restaurant that immediately puts beingets on the table!  Southern comfort cooking is taking over Chicago, and Big Jones is the newest place for cozy, casual delicious fare.  Food is served New Orleans style, and I dined there for brunch in celebration of a friend's 40th birthday. It should be noted that we met as 17 year old girls; each of us playing one of the witches in a summer production of "The Wiz."  I'll leave it to you to guess which witch I played!


The food was amazing on all counts, but the service left a bit to be desired.  Big Jones makes a proper red velvet cake, baked to order (a rarity these days) and an Omelet Lafourche that was absolutely amazing!  We're going to try it for dinner next, so stay tuned.









On my first day in London this round, I took a "day off" and enjoyed the city on my own for a few hours.  I began by getting my hair blown out....had a fairy cake at Ella's (see below)....went to the matinee of "Priscilla Queen of the Desert" (FABULOUS and very fun!!)....and then ended the day by having dinner with a decadent friend at Clos.  I blog often about my "old and dear" friends....but this one is a newer friend, who came into my life quite serendipitously one drunken night at Gordon's Wine Cellar in London.  My gay husband and I noted a very handsome and animated man celebrating his friend's engagement and could not resist introducing ourselves.  The rest is history, and my trips to London are never quite complete without sharing a meal with him.


The dinner got off to a bit of a rocky start as the reservation name had been mis-spelled.  The maitre d would not seat me until I could prove (which I did via email) that I should, in fact, be given the table.  While the service never redeemed itself, the food and gorgeous room certainly did!  We opted for a 6 course degustation menu.  My companion dined on the harvest menu and I chose the vegetarian.  Vegetarian is NEVER my thing, but the volume of truffles being offered forced me to make the choice - and it was well worth it!   And I do love a degustation that offers both cheese and chocolate.


The Stained Glass - Evanston, IL - www.thestainedglass.com







There with my Domino's loving friend from college, we had a lovely evening that started off with an absolutely magnificent onion tarte. It was so good (served warm with a flaky, buttery crust) that we were determined to finish the entire tarte during the course of the meal, and were not above stabbing the hand of our server each time she tried to remove it.  I had rack of lamb with a parmesan and white truffle creme brule that was a revelation and my friend had a fish dish that we agreed was trying too hard.  Thankfully, 2 out of 3 of the chocolate offerings on the dessert that we chose more than made up for it.


Ella's Bakehouse - Covent Garden, London - http://ellasbakehouse.co.uk/







I plan to do a post that celebrates 2 of my favourite treats; cocktails and cupcakes.  So.... I will simply say that, for me, Ella's are the best in London with a dense, moist cake and the perfect (and yes, generous) topping of frosting and glitter.  If a girl can't have a bit of bling on her cupcakes, then where can she!?


XOXO and until next time......

Monday, November 23, 2009

Home for the Holidays


They say that you can't go home again, but I must disagree.  Finally on the ground long enough to enjoy myself a bit, I've been having an absolutely delicious and delightful Thanksgiving holiday in Chicago - which is arguably one of the finest dining cities in the US, if not the world.

Before offering my thoughts on a clear new favourite, I must give a shout out to Hilary's Cookies http://www.eathilaryscookies.com/ - owned and operated Hilary Black, who is a friend from my undergraduate days at the University of Illinois.  



At a recent reunion for our dorm floor, she brought heaps of them in amazing flavours, like the chocolate brownie, cranberry orange, and chocolate coffee.  That said the piece d'resistance for me was her VEGAN pumpkin cookie.  Yes....VEGAN.  Those of you that know me can attest to the fact that I am an unabashed carnivore and these vegan delights were enough to turn me (at least for the moment.) The smell alone was everything that fall should taste like in one deep breath....and the cookies themselves are dense, moist and utterly delicious.  Hilary sells at Whole Foods and is opening a retail store in January 2010.  Take a taste....you won't regret it!

My holiday fun began with brunch at M Henry, in Andersonville - www.mhenry.net  




Open only for breakfast and lunch, M Henry focuses on locally produced, organic New American fare.  It is in a gentrifying neighborhood, does not take reservations (AGAIN!  Can you believe that I was willing to queue up twice in one month, much less lifetime!?) and is BYOB.  That said, the room is bright and the lines are long....and the pastries and treats in the front cafe are so gorgeous that it became immediately apparent that it just might be worth the wait.

There with 2 friends who love to share, we decided to order 3 sandwiches to be shared, and one of the sweet and decadent breakfast offerings as a dessert.  We selected a grilled vegetable and goat cheese sandwich, tom turkey on sourdough, and grilled cheese (my personal favourite) that we were able to build ourselves, filled with Vermont Cheddar, walnut pesto and green apples.  Each one was better than the next, and quite filling all together.  We finished off the meal with a spendid bread pudding, made from sweet vanilla infused bread and covered in blue and black berries and powdered sugar.  

As always, even more delicious than the food was the company.  There's nothing better than dining with friends....and there's nothing that tops that more than dining with friends who love to indulge freely!

I'm now settling in to join in the Thanksgiving cooking, and believe it or not, am looking forward to NOT dining out....and to enjoying the smells and tastes that will come out of my own kitchen.  

Wishing you and those you love a delicious and sweet Thanksgiving holiday!

XOXO!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

The Long Road to Mexico


While London is arguably the most international city in the world, it apparently lacks a bit in one area.  

Mexican food.

As one of my dear ex-pat friends in London loves Mexican food, we set out on a long road to try what was rumoured to be the best Mexican food in town.  As a slight aside, I'm famous for travelling in rather cushy style - preferring car service or taxis to anything else.  That said I had an errand to run in the neighborhood, and as Mapquest told me that it was a 1/3 mile walk between the 2 places, I endeavored to find the restaurant on my own.  The 1/3 mile turned into a full mile as street signs were rare and the streets in the heart of Covent Garden are really more like alleys....but eventually (and only asking for help once) I managed to find my way, with one dozen divine fairy cakes in tow for my niece and nephew back in the US purchased at the Primrose Bakery in Covent Garden.  http://www.primrosebakery.org.uk/.  It is a sweet and darling place that is well worth a visit!




Now, back to Mexico....

Wahaca, http://www.wahaca.co.uk/html/1_restaurants.html, is a casual restaurant tucked away on one of the aforementioned narrow, alleylike streets in Covent Garden.  It does not take reservations (which as you might imagine clearly did not thrill me) and, apparently, ALWAYS has a long line for a table.




We queued up with the throngs of 20 somethings for our table, and even on a weeknight, we waited for one hour.  (In full disclosure, I hit my breaking point at 55 ish minutes, proclaiming that they had 5 more minutes before we had to make a different choice.  Fortunately, the table gods must have heard me, because we were seated almost immediately thereafter).

The concept is Mexican market, and one can choose from small plates (taquitos, quesedillas, etc) or full sized plates.  We opted for the smaller plates including the guacamole,frijoles con crema,  tortilla soup with chicken (which was a thick, delicious tomato based soup with chunks of avocado, charred onion and tender chicken), mushroom and feta taquitos, chicken quesedillas and steak and chicken tacos.  Add a bit of aqua fresca, Negra Modela beer and vanilla ice cream with roasted pumpkin seeds and caramel sauce, and the hour long wait faded into memory and we were well-sated and happy.  

I don't love waiting on line....and I'd like to pretend that being around all of those 20 somethings made me feel like a young girl of 35 again (it clearly did not!)... but would I go back?  

Absolutely....and especially now that I know the way.

Until next time....  XOXO!

Sunday, November 15, 2009

The Calm After the British Storm


I arrived into London yesterday on what I was told was the worst weather day of the year to - date....with rain pouring down and winds gusting at 80 mph....and a descent into Heathrow that left me feeling ill.  After a fantastic nap, I dressed for my evening and began to mentally prepare myself for a stormy night.  It turned out to be quite civilised, clear and perfect...as was the rest of my evening.

The plan was for dinner and theatre with a dear friend who is an ex-pat living in London for now three years.  Both the table and the tickets were tough pulls as they were rumoured to be among the best in London-town.....and they were.

We dined at The Ivy, www.the-ivy.co.uk , which is tucked away on a genteel corner in the heart of "Theatreland."  I had been told to try it for brunch for many years, not realising that it is also one of the better places for pre or post theatre dining.  Offering Modern British and Euopean fare, the space is elegant and clean, and much like the famed Ivy restaurants in Los Angeles, it is a great place for a bit of star-gazing.

My choices last night included Roasted Partridge on Toast, Pumpkin Tortelloni with Walnut Cream Sauce and Sticky Toffee Pudding with Ice Cream.  I had never seen partridge in print before (other than "Partridge Family" or "....in a pear tree") and was even more fascinated that the game served at The Ivy is so fresh that it comes with the disclaimer that one might find a bit of buckshot on the plate.....so I couldn't resist!  It was lovely and flavourful (and no, my friends, it does not taste like chicken),  buckshot free, and came topped with salad and marinated tomatoes.   The tortelloni was amazing, served with large slices of roasted pumpkin and filled with dense, creamy cheese.  And the sticky toffee pudding was the perfect treat!  It seems that "pudding" in the UK is a general term for dessert - and not the Jello brand, creamy stuff that we get in the US.  I was brought a simple warm, dense caramel flavoured cake topped with caramel-toffee sauce and served with vanilla ice cream - and could not have been happier!

We took a short walk after dinner to the Donmar Warehouse, www.donmarwarehouse.com , to see "Life is a Dream;" an ensemble piece featuring the incandescent Dominic West (from HBO's "The Wire).  For theatre lovers, the Donmar is paradise; a 250 seat, non-profit space that showcases innovative, critically acclaimed, award winning theatre.    "Life is a Dream" is a play that was translated from the 16th century original Spanish by Pedro Calderon de la Barca and is a complex, both funny and torturously poignant poetic piece that I cannot recommend highly enough.

It remained clear and beautiful after we left the theatre, and so the evening ended with a leisurely stroll through Covent Garden for as long as my high heels would allow.  It was a truly perfect evening.

As this is how my trip has begun, and it should be noted that the sun is shining brightly this morning, I can only quote the author of last night's piece and say...

If I'm asleep, don't let me wake
If this is real, don't let me dream


















Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Going Home Again...Or At Least to The Homestead....


Once upon a time, about a decade ago, I was fortunate to have a very special evening dining at Trio in Evanston, IL.  There with a dear friend to celebrate the launch of his business, we feasted on a stunning seven course degustation menu prepared by up and coming chef rockstar Shawn McClain, with paired wines.  Of course, our palattes were not yet refined enough to appreciate the artistry behind foie gras terrines, and we admittedly could not identify easily many of the things on which we dined.  It was my first "fancy" dinner of that kind, and remains to this day one of the fondest and most beautiful dining experiences in my memory banks.

Now ten years later, both Shawn McClain and my dear friend have moved on new ventures.  Trio is now Quince www.quincerestaurant.net -  and as celebrating over the sale of my friend's business needed to be done, we elected to try it and see what lied in the new concept.

The space is in a quirky hotel in Evanston called "The Homestead" and it has been revisioned into a gorgeous, but very casual enviroment - complete with lots of wood, sunflowers and a roaring fireplace.  That said, the food remains quite high end, both in terms of concept and presentation, and the rather large disparity between the room and the food caught us immediately off-guard.  My dear friend quipped that he, wearing jeans, had dressed for the room - while I, wearing an Anna Scholz wrap dress and high heeled boots, had dressed for the food.

It should be immediately admitted that even ten years - and lots of dining education -  later, there remained things on the menu that we could not easily identify!

Our first course included  crispy veal dumplings, and squid ink ravioli filled with liquid cauliflower and topped with smoked salmon and caviar.  The ravioli was truly inspired and I was tempted to ask for a second plate of it!  (I did not, for the record, but I really wanted to...)

Our main courses included duck with canneloni and braised veal and waygu beef served with cous cous - all of which was magnificent.  Dessert held the only slight shortcoming in that we found the pumpkin ravioli with chocolate ice cream and apple compote to be a bit disconnected.  Thankfully the chamomille creme brule and shortbread more than made up for it, and we found ourselves a bit disappointed that the chef did not offer a several course degustation menu as Chef McClain had so many years ago.

Of additional note were the cocktail selections.  I am normally an old fashioned girl, who likes to keep things simple.  I fancy vodka martinis, single malt scotch that is at least old enough to vote in the US (served neat) and Manhattans.  Even on holiday in Bali, I could not bring myself to order anything served out of a coconut or with an umbrella stuck inside!  That said, I was compelled to try a rose hip manhattan at Quince and it was FAB U LOUS.  Combining Jack Daniels, rose hip liquor and Grand Marnier, I was sorry that I had to stop at one.

In an increasingly (and sadly in my opinion) casual world, Quince offers the best of environment - and food.  More than anything, however, the space is cozy, warm and delcious, and remains an ideal one for a leisurely and decadent meal with someone very special.

I'm back to London this weekend....so until the next time....

XOXO - A

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Elephants and Drag Queens in Boston

Normally, my trips to Boston are filled with too many cocktails, and many hours looking at cute college boys on Harvard Square with my gay husband (before, during and after  the many cocktails have been consumed).  


That said, on a recent visit we had a divine meal at Elephant Walk - www.elephantwalk.com - and the details must be shared!  


Offering French-Cambodian in an upscale casual setting, the food was just fantastic.  To be clear, it is not fusion; one can order French...or Cambodian.  Like so many restaurants trying to encourage dining these days, a wonderful prix fixe menu (offering three or four courses) was available.  I chose French fare which included duck ravioli with caramelised peaches, Steak Grillé et Gratin Dauphinois (the meat was beyond tender and the gratin was PERFECTION!) and apple crepe with vanilla ice cream and creme anglaise for dessert.  My companions selected some of the Cambodian dishes and, as we are all good sharers, I can confidently say that there was not a single disappointing dish among the 9 or so on the table.  Being delicate flowers all, we of course opted for the 3 course dinner rather than 4.


Although our post dinner activity was not dining related, it was nonetheless a creative feast, so I must also offer that a trip to the theatre to see "Valet of the Dolls" by the outrageously fabulous Ryan Landry and his Gold Dust Orphans - http://golddustorphans.com/ - could not have been a more perfect way to round out what began as our very civilised evening.  


Done in high drag - and with no regard for boundaries whatsoever - this parody of "Valley of the Dolls" is not to be believed.  That it is being staged in the basement of MACHINE, a gay, leather bar near Fenway, only added to the insanity.  "All About Christmas Eve" and "Phantom of the Oprah" are up next....and I have to say that I'm considering becoming a season ticket holder for the pun focused titles alone!


C'mon...you know that you want to become a season ticket holder with titles like that, too!


Until next time....


Kisses,


A

24 Decadent Hours in Manhattan....

I received so many wonderful emails after my French London email that I thought I would share my recent NY culinary adventure. Once again, I was spoiled with 24 hours of generous and terrifyingly indulgent dining. Suffice it to say that there will be nothing but protein shakes and water for the rest of the week!

Pastis - www.pastisny.com - Pastis is without question one of NY's most popular and chic spots in the Meatpacking District. The most desired tables are for Saturday night dinner or Sunday brunch when the scene is at the height of downtown NY fabulous. That said, it is wonderful on any day of the week and there is something quite magical about being in the Meatpacking District at 8:30 am on a Tuesday before everything (and everyone) really awakens. I tried to behave myself and have tartine and cafe au lait. Of course, the tartine comes with Nutella....so I wasn't THAT much of a good girl! My companion had salmon and eggs which looked delish. What I appreciate most about Pastis is that the service is never pretentious and always beyond lovely.

Beppe - www.beppenyc.com - Beppe is on 22nd in the Flatiron District and is a favourite haunt of CAA agents for lunch. It is a small (15 ish tables), lovely Italian spot with attentive service and a great 3 course, fixe prix lunch menu. I had salumi and buratta cheese with marinated peppers, kobe beef over arugula, and the Beppe s'more and canoli for dessert. I know....I know....bad girl for having a lunch that big knowing that dinner at Elio's was also on tap that evening! That said, everything was divine and well worth the indulgence. Their truffle parmesan fries have been consumed on other occasions and beyond incredible.

Elio's - Elio's, we decided at dinner, is among the best of Old New York. It has been an Upper East Side institution forever, and is filled with Italian speaking waiters, UES couples who still appreciate that one should dress for dinner, and delicious food. We dined on beef carpaccio with truffle oil, tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, red snapper, veal paillard....and tartufo et gelati. The dining room was very crowded and hot, so my companion and I opted for a table outside and for most of our meal, we dined blissfully alone and well cared for by the staff. Elio's is best known for spaghetti and meatballs on Wednesday nights, and is a perfect place for a grown up dinner - either with friends or with a lover.

Norma's - At the Parker Meridian Hotel on 56th and 6th, Norma's is my absolute favourite place for breakfast in the city. The Blueberry Pancakes keep me coming back for more... as they are served with blueberry compote and clotted cream. My companion had waffles with fruit inside and out and a brule topping that were staggering. Lunch is equally fabulous - with the lobster macaroni and cheese being a favourite. It's even better, I learned from a producer friend of mine, when one has truffle oil added. Of course, what isn't better with a little truffle oil added!? Be forewarned....The food and the price tag are not for the faint of heart. Breakfast for 2 came in at $75. Only in New York!



Of course, I can't wait to go back for more!

Bon appetit and Kisses - A

My Tour of French London - October 2009

Bonjour mes amis!

As some of you know, I had the unique pleasure of dining on French
fare in London three times in a 2 day period this week.
Well....actually FOUR times, if you count the cafe au lait et
croissant that I had for breakfast. As it was all delicious, I
wanted to pass the information along to those of you that I know visit
London from time to time.

Here's the rundown....

http://www.loranger.co.uk/ - L'Oranger, in Mayfair. The room is
sophisticated and upscale and the manager is delightful! We had the
beef fillet with bone marrow and roquefort, and the chocolat fondant.
It was EXQUISITE, and is a great place to take someone for an
impressive business lunch or a professional or personal dinner.

http://www.coqdargent.co.uk/ - Coq D'Argent. The restaurant is on a
rooftop and the room is very hip and sexy (as is the outdoor lounge
space.) We had crab with dill mousse and duck confit....amazing creme
brule (it was the vanilla, I think)....and the best martinis I've had
in London. I think that it would be a great place to take a date that
one is trying to impress. On the whole, I preferred the food at
L'Oranger to Coq.

And....an adorable French Bistro in Chelsea near the Sloan Street
Station - La Poule Au Pot. They don't have a website. The onion
tarte and chicken with tarragon sauce were lovely, and they had
fantastic frites. It is cozy, not at all trendy, and I felt quite
transported. It is romantic and VERY authentic. I was there having a
business lunch, but think that it would be the perfect place for a
romantic, sweet dinner for 2.

Hoping that this finds you all well! I'm now trying to sort out how
one burns off all of that French food.....

Kisses - A