Once upon a time, about a decade ago, I was fortunate to have a very special evening dining at Trio in Evanston, IL. There with a dear friend to celebrate the launch of his business, we feasted on a stunning seven course degustation menu prepared by up and coming chef rockstar Shawn McClain, with paired wines. Of course, our palattes were not yet refined enough to appreciate the artistry behind foie gras terrines, and we admittedly could not identify easily many of the things on which we dined. It was my first "fancy" dinner of that kind, and remains to this day one of the fondest and most beautiful dining experiences in my memory banks.
Now ten years later, both Shawn McClain and my dear friend have moved on new ventures. Trio is now Quince www.quincerestaurant.net - and as celebrating over the sale of my friend's business needed to be done, we elected to try it and see what lied in the new concept.
The space is in a quirky hotel in Evanston called "The Homestead" and it has been revisioned into a gorgeous, but very casual enviroment - complete with lots of wood, sunflowers and a roaring fireplace. That said, the food remains quite high end, both in terms of concept and presentation, and the rather large disparity between the room and the food caught us immediately off-guard. My dear friend quipped that he, wearing jeans, had dressed for the room - while I, wearing an Anna Scholz wrap dress and high heeled boots, had dressed for the food.
It should be immediately admitted that even ten years - and lots of dining education - later, there remained things on the menu that we could not easily identify!
Our first course included crispy veal dumplings, and squid ink ravioli filled with liquid cauliflower and topped with smoked salmon and caviar. The ravioli was truly inspired and I was tempted to ask for a second plate of it! (I did not, for the record, but I really wanted to...)
Our main courses included duck with canneloni and braised veal and waygu beef served with cous cous - all of which was magnificent. Dessert held the only slight shortcoming in that we found the pumpkin ravioli with chocolate ice cream and apple compote to be a bit disconnected. Thankfully the chamomille creme brule and shortbread more than made up for it, and we found ourselves a bit disappointed that the chef did not offer a several course degustation menu as Chef McClain had so many years ago.
Of additional note were the cocktail selections. I am normally an old fashioned girl, who likes to keep things simple. I fancy vodka martinis, single malt scotch that is at least old enough to vote in the US (served neat) and Manhattans. Even on holiday in Bali, I could not bring myself to order anything served out of a coconut or with an umbrella stuck inside! That said, I was compelled to try a rose hip manhattan at Quince and it was FAB U LOUS. Combining Jack Daniels, rose hip liquor and Grand Marnier, I was sorry that I had to stop at one.
In an increasingly (and sadly in my opinion) casual world, Quince offers the best of environment - and food. More than anything, however, the space is cozy, warm and delcious, and remains an ideal one for a leisurely and decadent meal with someone very special.
I'm back to London this weekend....so until the next time....
XOXO - A
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